Time for a new rifle.

 

As you can tell by this blog, I’ve been working on a “Designated Marksman” course focused on law enforcement officers in small communities for the last little while.  And while I culminated that coursework with the selection of a Savage 110 in .308 – the reality is that most officers end up with their patrol rifle in hand when the need for an accurate and precise shot is needed.  To accomplish this, you need a rifle capable of making such a shot.  While virtually all ARs that are selected as patrol rifles can make a “combat effect hit” – in other words the “hit” degrades the threat’s ability to do the officer harm, a rifle capable of “better” accuracy and precision is needed for a DM role.

So first, let’s talk about Accuracy and Precision.  Accuracy is the ability of the rifle – along with its inherent accuracy, sighting system and ammunition - to place a round within a defined area on a threat.  Precision is the ability of the rifle, again along with its inherent accuracy, sighting system and ammunition to place multiple rounds – typically 5 consecutive rounds – in close proximity to previous rounds fired.  The “standards” I’ve chosen are a target area of 2-inches at a distance of 50-yards, 3-inches at 100-yards and 6-inches at 200-yards.  Statics show that the average engagement distance for an officer is 51 yards.  To date, the longest shot sits right at 170 yards.

The size of the target is based on the average size of the ocular cavity – about 3-1/2 inches.  So, if a DM can keep their rounds within a 2-inch circle at 50 yards and a 3-inch circle at 100 yards . . . at least 80% of the time, I will consider their efforts successful.  Tighter is, of course, better.  The goal I want a DM to work towards is a 2MOA group regardless of distance.  At 50-yards I typically put 3-5 rounds on 10ea 2-inch targets.  I will then use an app called “RangeBuddy” to score each target.  The app then will average all 10 targets giving me my average group size.  I am looking for an average over the 10 targets of 2MOA. 

At 100-yards I will put 5 rounds within a 3-inch target with 5ea targets to a target sheet.  Again, I will score each target and look for an average of 2MOA over 5 targets.

If I look at priorities, the priority is to have 80% of the rounds within the specific target for all targets on the target sheet.  The second priority is to achieve the 2MOA average group size over all targets on the target sheet.

Ammunition also plays a part – a big part.  If you look at the variance between standard “ball” ammunition and “Match Grade” ammunition it can easily be 1/2MOA or more.  That said, from simply cost point of view, I would encourage the use of a good quality ball ammunition for practice while a high quality defensive ammunition is carried while on duty such as Hornady’s Critical Defense.  Zero the AR for the Critical Defense ammunition, set the zero stops on your scope’s turrets.  Then, for range sessions, set new offsets for the practice ammunition and then return to the zero stops at the end of the session.  While a bit of a hassle, I think the cost savings will make it well worth your while.

So, now we have some fundamentals when looking for an AR that will meet my accuracy and precision requirements.  I ran across an excellent article at AccurateShooter.com that listed 14 key items to be considered.  To me the ones I considered as “Primary” were Great Barrel, Rigid Upper, a Rigid Free-Float Handguard, Component Quality and Quality Ammunition. 

I received my first M16 in August of 1968.  Pretty much qualified on them every year for 20+ years.  I’ve owned a number AR-15 variants myself for the past 20 years taking them to numerous courses from Gunsite, Rob Pincus, NAPSI as well as the Patrol Rifle course taught in the state of Iowa and an instructor course for “Patrol Rifles”.  I also completed the AR Armorer course to gain a better understanding of the platform and to be able to maintain my own ARs.  What I learned is that, in my opinion, it’s a great 6MOA gun.  That’s what it’s designed for.  It is, in no way a “precision” firearm.  The military set the spec and so it has been since the M16s introduction.  The government began a search for a replacement for the M-16 and designated a specification of 4MOA.  During that search Land Warfare Resources Corporation International – LWRC – was born to develop a competitive model.  Despite their efforts and the efforts of a number of other companies, the government closed that competition in 2013 and decided to continue with the Colt contract and a slightly heavier barrel.  However, LWRC did not simply pitch all their hard work in the trach.  Rather they introduced the variant they developed and the LWRC IC-A5 was born. 

While filling the square of “Armorer” for our community PD the Chief of Police purchased an LWRC a number of years back.  I would periodically run PMs on all patrol rifles and I have to say I was very impressed with the LWRC IC-A5.  It was a sturdy, beefy and well-built rifle.

So recently, I decided to add the semiautomatic carbine to my options for a DM rifle just to see how it would hold up to a bolt gun.  And, I simply could not find a better option than the LWRC IC-A5 rifle.  Money changed hands and presto-change-o, I was the proud owner of a new AR rifle.

Next came additional “furniture”.  My standard sling is the Vickers VTAC Padded sling – no better sling on the market.  I added a MAGPUL Bipod, a Streamlight TR-1 flashlight and then a scope.  Since this was to be used for more precision shooting out to 100-yards, a Red Dot was not on my list to add.

I have a fondness for Scout Scopes for DM rifles.  They will provide magnification up to around 7 and the long eye relief provides better situational awareness in my opinion.  Since I have a Vortex 1x7 Scout Scope on my personal DM rifle 

I decided to add one to the LWRC.  Let’s just say the results were mixed.  It’s a big scope and bulky.  My results at 50-yards were fine – not so much at 100-yards.  A had any number of folks point out that I was “bridging” my rings meaning that the rear ring was on the lower and the front was on the handguard that was a separate component.  The theory goes that when the gun fires the barrel sends harmonics through the handguard and will affect the accuracy of the scope.  Honestly, I’m not sure how that happens since the barrel free floats and entire weapon is at “rest” when you pull the trigger – I would think the same forces would act on the bullet regardless how the scope is mounted.  Setting all that aside, the whole thing was just plain too bulky to be workable, so I scrapped the idea and looked at LPVOs.  I eventually settled on the Bushnell 1x8 LPVO with the BTR-1 illuminated reticle . . . it was a great choice.  Of course, there’s always something.  The rear bell is very big – so big that even with “high” rings it still rubbed on the rear BUS (Back Up Sight).  So, I removed it and configured it for a comfortable eye relief.  This is 3.5-inch-ish but there’s lots of play so mounting the rifle is very easy.

This is the final configuration as it stands today – we’ll see if it stays going forward.  Winter is moving in hard, and I have some hospital time coming up next month (I have a new hip on order) so I suspect “she’s” put away until things begin to warm up in March.

I’ll post photos from both range trips, I suspect you’ll pick up on the difference the new configuration with the Bushnell scope made.  But I found the first trip disappointing.  There were two issues – first was accuracy at 100-yards and second was a “spongy” and long trigger.  Let’s talk about accuracy first.

The spec for the government contract was a 4MOA rifle.  My average group size 7 targets, 5 rounds per target was 2.59 inches.  Well within the 4MOA spec.  That said, it’s well outside my desired 2MOA spec.  Granted, this was just ball ammunition – but for practical practice – no shooter can afford match grade ammo for all his range work.  So, somehow it needs to work with ball ammunition.  All that said, remember my expectation of accuracy is to be able to place all the rounds within a 3-inch target at 100 yards.  Here things failed in a fairly spectacular fashion shooting a 73% on one target and a 68% on the second. 

As far as 50-yards were concerned there were no real issues.  My average group size across 10 targets, 3-rounds per target was 2.01MOA – I’ll take it and I shot a 97%. 

It was at this point that I flushed the Scout Scope and replaced it with the Bushnell AR 1x8 and did a “rinse and repeat” for a range trip at 50-yards and 100-yards.  I was still shooting PMC Bronze – I am a cheap bastard and I believe more reps are important.  The results were much more satisfying.

Without match grade ammunition I backed off and just focused on the Accuracy component, getting the rounds within the 2-inch target at 50-yards and a 3-inch target at 100-yards.  Honestly the results were much better.  I shot a 100% at 50-yards shooting 3-round groups.  And I shot a 84% at 100-yards shooting 5-round groups.  80% passes the course for students . . . but as the instructor I like to hit 90% - just did not happen this time. 

 

The other thing I commented on earlier was that the trigger was “spongey” – and it’s “long”.  And while I didn’t measure it, I suspect it’s 3+pounds as well.  Honestly, for a military grade and LEO grade rifle, I expect that.  “Hair” triggers really have no place in the workplace.  However, that said – by working the trigger reset – the trigger weight was significantly reduced, and the “spongey-ness” was completely eliminated.  What I mean is that after sending the first round down range I held the trigger hard to the rear, reacquired a proper sight picture, eased forward on the trigger until it reset and then pressed off the next round. This significantly increased accuracy as well.  And yes . . . match grade would bring things in as well – but no, not going to use match grade for practice ammunition.

Of course, such a weapon is typically used off-hand and at much closer distances.  I use a 50-round evaluation course of fire to see where a shooter is at with both their handgun and their rifle.  To do this I utilize a SEB target from Action Target and is divided into 6 engagements shot from a distance of 10-yards for the rifle.

Engagement #1 – Mount – Touch – Press Drill - 5ea single round engagements (5 rounds total)

On the command “UP!” and starting from the low ready you Mount the rifle and acquire the target – Target #1.  (Remember you are much closer to the target and at this distance your POI will be about 2-inches below your POA).  You confirm your  POA and smoothly press the trigger – then return to the low ready.  Your primary goal is to get the hit – time is secondary.  There is balance in the timing between speed and accuracy – but getting the hit takes precedence.

Engagement #2 – Single Round Engagement – 5ea single round engagements. (5 rounds total)

On the command “UP!”  and starting from the low ready to send a single round into Target #2 and return to the low ready.  This will be repeated for a total of 5 engagements.

Engagement #3 – Head Shot – 5ea single round engagements.  (5 rounds total)

On the command “UP!” and starting from the low ready you send a single round engagement into the Ocular Cavity of the head-box.  Again, remember the 2-inch difference between the POA and the POI.  This will be repeated for a total of 5 engagements.  (5 rounds total)

Engagement #4 – Hammer – 5ea accelerated pairs. (10 rounds total)

On the command “UP!” you engage Target #3 with an accelerated pair – going as fast as you can while still getting the hit.  This is repeated for a total of 5 engagements.

Engagement #5 – High Center Mass Hammer – at Max Speed – 5ea accelerated pairs. (10 rounds total).

On the command “UP!” you engage the High Center Mass box with two rounds as fast as you can drive the gun.  The obvious goal is that your rounds go in the box, but in this specific engagement speed is the driving force. 

Engagement #6 – Failure Drill – a combination of a Hammer in the HCM box and a single round in the ocular cavity.  (15 rounds)

On the “UP!” command you engage the High Center Mass box with two rounds and then transition to the Ocular cavity for a single round engagement.

The minimum score for this set of evaluation drills is 80%.  When I shot this for the evaluation shoot with the LWRC IC-A5 I shot a 92%.  I think this does a good job of wringing out some basic shooting skills anyone running an AR should have down solid.

To wrap this up, regardless of the final changes in equipment and methodology I’m satisfied for the time being and will continue to work with the rifle come this spring.

So, will this rifle “fill the squares” for a DM rifle?  Yes, I believe so.  The reality is that most small departments do not have DM.  Many will send an officer to “Sniper School” but that is such a unique and specialized skillset that I do not believe most officers or departments will spend the money required to maintain the sniper skills.  And the likelihood of taking a shot past 200 yards in a community is minimal.  If an officer works hard and consistently on their marksmanship with their patrol rifle, that can go a long way to fulfilling a DM role especially if they choose a patrol rifle and outfit it to do just that job. Frankly, I prefer a larger caliber – read .308 here – rifle and a bolt gun for the DM role.  And that’s how I teach the course.  That does not stop from folks bringing their ARs though.  Most come to realize that it can be hard to meet the accuracy expectations with a standard AR and red dot.

Bottom, bottom line – I find the LWRC IC-A5 a superior AR option and would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone looking for a solid AR rifle.

 

I’m new to rifle shooting – where do I start?

Like most avid shooters, I subscribe to a number of different Facebook Groups regarding firearms. This post deals mostly with the more advanced elements of shooting – precision shooting, use of Scout Rifles and precision rifles and the use of the 22LR rifle. It’s not unusual to see brand new shooters joining these groups a couple times a week. Their posts usually revolve around the rifle they purchased, and it’s associated “furniture” – bipod, scope, muzzle break, whether they need to change their stock to get better precision and accuracy . . . along with a host of other typical “beginner” questions. And many times, I respond to their questions coming from my experience in introducing new and inexperienced shooters to rifle shooting – everyone from kids with a new BB Gun, to Scouts working on their Rifle Merit badge, to adults learning to shoot a rifle for the first time, to patrol officers working to get better with their patrol rifle. But . . . it takes a lot of words to fully explain the things that I believe are important. It occurred to me, while my wife and I are traveling on a winter vacation, perhaps the easiest thing to do would be to simply post a comprehensive post for a new and inexperienced shooter to lend them a hand to get started. And that is the purpose of this post . . . where to start and how to start. Grab a sandwich, this could get to be a long puppy!!

Let’s start out with expectations. If you’re a new shooter and have been watching YouTube videos of shooters nailing steel plates out to 500 to 1000 yards easy-peasy . . . you might be in for a bit of a wakeup call. The same holds for the shooter who went to the range for the day and posts a single photo of a target with a 5-round group all occupying approximately the same hole. Let’s be frank here – they’re only showing a single photo for a single reason – the rest of their groups just “may” be a bit more open – just sayin’. So, what is reality? We’ll over the past 50 years of shooting my experience is that most rifles are capable of a 1-MOA or less group – once in a while. Hence – their manufacturer will call them 1-MOA guns. That does NOT mean that they will shoot such a group every time you send 5-rounds downrange – but, if YOU DO EVERYTHING PROPERLY, if you use good ammunition, if you shoot when the wind is calm and if you purchase a reasonably good rifle – you too can shoot a 1-MOA group once in a while.

Let’s also define a couple of other terms here. Accuracy – the rounds go where you are aiming. And, Precision – all the rounds go to the same place. My goal is to have all my rounds to land in a 1-inch group within a 2-inch circle at 50 yards. Moving out to 100 yards, I want all my rounds to land in a 2-inch group within a 3-inch circle. Honestly, this is where I spend most of my time – at 50 and 100 yards. It is where you can work on all your fundamentals, your shooting positions and learn about the need to do all the little things correctly. It is where you will learn to run your rifle. Where you will learn the discipline to do all the fundamentals exactly correctly each and every round to achieve your overall goals of Accuracy and Precision.

So, let’s chat a bit about “DA RIFLE” . . . what to buy, what to buy. The reality of things is that you CAN buy precision by the rifle and ammunition that you purchase. You CAN NOT buy accuracy – that is squarely on the shoulders of the person you look at every morning as you brush your teeth. I usually recommend buying a “klunker” – an older, used, single shot, bolt action with iron sights only. Mine is shown in the photo of me behind the gun. It is a Stevens 53B 22LR. I have about a half dozen similar rifles that I use for firearms training for new shooters and Scouts. I’ve had hundreds of Scouts shoot their 5 qualification targets with such rifle and earn their Rifle Merit Badge. This is where I encourage you to begin. Your goal is to shoot a 1-inch group, within a 3-inch circle at 50 feet. My argument is that if you cannot do this on demand – with a 80% success rate – why spend money on a larger caliber gun? You learn the fundamentals while shooting ammunition that costs $.10 per round rather than $2.00+ a round. That just makes sense to me.

Your first step will be to zero your rifle. All rifles and aiming systems have their own quirks. You will need to learn each and become proficient in zeroing each rifle. For the Stevens 53B there is a screw on the rear sight that you can loosen and then move the sight left or right in the same direction you wish to adjust the “windage” on the rifle. If you want the bullet to hit 1-inch to the left, you move the rear sight notch slightly to the left. And visa-versa to adjust to the right. The movement is slight, even at just 50 feet. It’s even less at 50-yards. For elevation there is a movable, stepped bar that moves forward and backward under the rear sight. This is what you will move forward or back to elevate your point of impact or lower it. Zeroing is typically only done once, and seldom needs adjustment unless your hardware is loose or there is a drastic change in the performance of your ammunition.

Next is mounting the rifle to your shoulder. I suggest you start shooting from a bench rest position until you have all the little things down like – mounting the rifle into the pocket of your shoulder, finding a good cheek weld on the comb of the stock, having a grip that does not affect the point of aim while you smoothly press the trigger straight to the rear. It is the place to learn sight alignment – the front blade is in the middle of the rear notch and the top of the front blade is even with the top of the rear notch. Finally, you can learn sight picture” – the above mentioned “sight alignment” is placed on the target in such a way that the top of the front blade lays just below the center dot of your target. If you do everything correctly, you point of impact will be in the center of the black dot on your target. Your goal should be that for 50-rounds, that is 10 targets at 50-feet with 5-rounds per target, your groups should be 1-inch in diameter or less and they should all lay within a 3-inch target. Your goal should be to be able to accomplish this 80% of the time. Again, if you cannot accomplish this, why spend money on an expensive rifle with expensive ammunition to learn and become proficient with the fundamentals.

Once you’re proficient with your “klunker”, think about “moving up”. I have two bolt action 22LR rifles that I purchased new. One is the Ruger American 22LR with a bipod and Vortex 2-7x Scout Rifle. And, I have a Ruger Precision Rifle in 22LR with bipod a Vortex Crossfire II Scope. Periodically, I will return to the Stevens 53B for a couple boxes of 22LR, but most of the range work, both at 50-yards and 100-yards is done with the Ruger Rifles.

I believe that many shooters believe that if they spend lots of money on the rifle and the scope and associated gear, they will shoot better. Honestly, again, most issues do not lie with the gun, but the shooter.

I suggest you begin each session at 50-yards with a single box of 22LR. Each rifle will “like” a certain 22LR ammunition. Most of mine like Eley Club that runs about $10 per box. You can spend much more – and gain little in precision. But you can spend much less – and simply fail to come close to your precision goals. Eley Club is a good middle ground for me.

My target is a 2-inch circle for 50-yards. I expect to shoot a 1-inch group that is within the 2-inch circle. And, I expect to do this for a minimum of 8 of the 10 targets I will shoot at 50-yards. This is typically my starting exercise for my range trip.

Next, I’ll move to the 100-yard range. My target will change to a 3-inch circle for 100-yards. Here, I expect to shoot a 2-inch group that is within the 3-inch circle. I expect to do this for a minimum of 8 of the 10 targets I will shoot at 100-yards.

I use the same targets with the same expectations with my Ruger Precision Rifle in 22LR for both 50-yards and 100-yards.

I realize that everyone likes to shoot the big rifles - .308, .338 or maybe the lowly .223 but, but – the mechanics are exactly the same for each rifle (fully acknowledging the recoil mitigation is significantly between 22LRs and the larger calibers). Mounting the rifle, getting a good cheek weld, acquiring your sight alignment and sight picture, loading the bipod, using the rear bag, a smooth trigger press straight to the rear, running the bolt, reacquiring the target, and reengaging the target. If you successfully do all those things with the 22LR, you are wiring your neural pathways that will function exactly the same with your larger caliber rifles.

For larger caliber rifles, I have a Ruger Precision Rifle in .308 with a Vortex Viper scope and bipod, a Savage 110 Scout in .308 with a Vortex Scout Scope and bipod, and a Ruger American Predator in .223 with a Vortex Crossfire II and a bipod. My experience is that if I do my work with the 22LR rifles, the transition to the larger caliber rifles is straight forward and I can consistently meet my shooting goals.

One thing with the larger caliber rifles that I learned was to reduce my group sizes to 3-round groups with 5 minutes between each target. This is due to barrel heating. When I shot 5-round groups, by the time I got to the 4th target on up, the groups would open up because the barrel heated affecting the precision of the rifle.

That pretty much wraps it up . . . if you are starting down the path of rifle shooting, I’d offer that you should begin “small”, work on and polish your fundamentals – then work your way up to the larger caliber rifle of your choice.

Enjoy the journey . . . hit the range . . . and be safe!!